Pokhara, Nepal
28th
December 2011 – 2nd January 2012
Mark D. Read &
Terri-Lynn Brennan
Background
Our budget trip to Pokhara was planned as a break from Dhangadhi,
in the Far-West Terai region of Nepal, where we have been working for the last
6 months. I briefly visited Pokhara back in 2002, on a 2-week birding trip
based around the 4-day Poon Hill circuit and a prolonged stay at Chitwan (due
to a 1-week National Strike). However, during that visit, Pokhara was really
just a stop-over and very few birds were added to that trip list. This time, I
wanted to spend a few days birding in and around the town, whilst at the same
time enjoying the ‘luxuries’ of a tourist spot with my non-birding wife - being
starved of western food and amenities for the last several months, this was
also important! Although I spent many hours each day out birding, I did not use
tapes and only occasionally used pishing techniques, when trying to see
skulkers. In total, I saw 123 species in and around Pokhara. If adding the bus
journey to/from Pokhara, another 10 species can be added making a trip total of
133 species.
Logistics
At the time of writing (Jan 2012), £1 was worth 133NPR. This
means, for example, that our 700 NPR Guest House accommodation cost just £5.25
per night.
Transport
We travelled by direct public bus from Dhangadhi to Pokhara for
1000 NPR each. Leaving Dhangadhi at 12:00 noon, it took a gruelling 19½ hours
to reach Pokhara. The journey was broken up with stops for food and ‘toilets’
on the way, but it was impossible to get any sleep. The addition of 20 goats to
the roof at an early stop, made opening the windows a definite no-no. The
return journey, on the very same bus, cost 50 NPR more, left at 13:30 and took
20 hours. The views of the steep gorges as we left the valley were, at times, a
little too close for comfort! ‘Tourist’ buses do ply the main highway and are
apparently more comfortable (no goats on the roof or massive sacks of rice in
the aisle) and stop less often, so if travelling from Kathmandu, this would
probably be a much better option.
In Pokhara itself, we took a taxi to/from the local bus
station to lakeside (200 NPR), but mainly walked elsewhere. We also caught a
taxi to the start of the rough road that ascends the hill at the back of the
Peace Pagoda for 300 NPR. We didn’t haggle too much, but I would imagine we
paid a little over the odds.
Accommodation
We stayed at Peace Eye
Guest House (+977 61461699) in South Lakeside. A double room cost 700 NPR
per night. It had hot water, free Wi-Fi and was very clean. They also have
dormitories and single rooms. A small restaurant served decent food and drinks,
and the British/Nepali owners were extremely welcoming and helpful. Pokhara can
cater for all budgets, but this place came recommended and we weren’t
disappointed.
Food
Being a tourist destination, Pokhara can cater for pretty
much every taste. Having been starved of western food for some time we ate a
variety of meat products almost every day and had no ‘issues’ at all. On the
bus, we stopped at local restaurants. Here we were more careful, but again had
no problems. We drank bottled water at all times – keep an empty 1litre soft
drink bottle with you, since most guest houses can refill it with bottled water
for 10 NPR.
Birding References
I read several of the trip reports hosted on travellingbirder.com
before leaving but couldn’t really get anything specific about Pokhara, other
than ‘seen in Pokhara’ or ‘we explored the gardens at the lodge’ type-thing. I
put out a request to birders on the OB (Oriental Birding) Yahoo! groups forum
and got some useful information back by email, particularly from Martin Naylor,
Allen Holmes, Laxman Poudyal and Gandhiv Kafle. A couple of them directed me
towards a local bird guide called Hari KC
(+977 9846041669). He’s the restaurant manager at Fishtail Lodge (see Birding
Sites) and, although I didn’t use his services, I met him a couple of times at
the lodge and he seems very knowledgeable and friendly.
For everyday use, I had ‘Birds of Nepal’ by Grimmett,
Inskipp & Inskipp, but I also used ‘Raptors of the World’ by James
Ferguson-Lees & David Christie, and Birds of Thailand and South-east Asia
by Craig Robson for further reference. Separating Himalayan and Griffon
Vultures was my biggest challenge, and I’m still not entirely confident that I
got it right. An article by Forsten
and Lindholm was useful in this respect, as well as Alström’s 1997 paper on
the Field
identification of Asian Gyps vultures in the Oriental Bird Club’s
Bulletin 25.
Bird names follow IOC World Bird Names (Version 2.9), though
errors may have slipped in since it is ‘Birds of Nepal’ that I tend to flick
through most often.
Birding Sites
Detailed tourist maps are easily available in town, though
those in the second-hand Rough Guide to Nepal that we used were perfectly
adequate. I restricted myself to sites within walking distance of the guest
house in Lakeside. This link will take
to Google Maps and show you my GPS tracks for the trip. The best spots were:
Fishtail Lodge: In South Lakeside, on the ‘other
side’ of the lake – accessed by free ‘ferry’ from near the cricket ground. A
rubbish dump at the back right of the lodge was particularly productive, as was
a guard post at the back left (use the ladder to climb onto the roof). Since
this is an upmarket resort, it is probably best to check in at reception/see
Hari KC and clear with them that it is OK to be there. I had no problems
whatsoever.
Lakeside: A small section in South Lakeside near the
cricket ground wasn’t bad, but the main stretch along Lakeside itself was
better, particularly if you keep going as far as the road at the north end,
passing flooded land to the right.
Phewa Tal Lake: For ducks, the northern end of the
lake is where you need to be. We hired a paddle boat (4 hours for 900 NPR) to
get there and explored the western shoreline on the way back. From Google
Earth, it appears as though you can get to another pool, north of the main
lake, but when we were ‘on the ground’ this proved harder. However, it should be
possible to ‘land’, get out and scope the pool from the northern bank (if the
water hyacinth doesn’t stop you).
Peace Pagoda: I did this twice, first time taking a
taxi to the rough dirt road on the west side of the hill and walking up it,
returning by the eastern forest trail down to the lake, and boat (300 NPR) back
to lakeside. I did this in the hope of Wallcreeper, but unfortunately the road
had just been ‘re-graded’, and any exposed rock along the road had been
recently cut.
The second time, I walked south from Lakeside to the dam and
crossed a suspension bridge just downstream from it (itself a great spot).
Here, I followed the main track between the fields and the forest until
reaching a small red ‘temple’. Next to the concrete water/washing area are some
steps leading into the woods. The first 50 metres or so are a maze of small
trails but keep heading up and you’ll soon reach a proper trail which is easy
to follow all the way to the top. Turning left at the top (rather than right to
the Peace Pagoda), takes you to a hill with prayer flags, which is good for
Spiny Babbler.
Guest House Roof Top: Great for raptors!
Daily Log
Tuesday 27th December 2011: Left
Dhangadhi, in the Far-Western Terai, on the midday bus. Taking the window seat,
this allowed 6 hours of ‘birding’ before nightfall. Highlights within the first
hour were Western Osprey and a very obliging sub-adult White-rumped Vulture. An
enforced stop shortly after this due to a running competition on the main road,
added Cinereous Tit, White-throated Kingfisher and Little Egret. Continuing
through the Terai towards Karnali added Red-wattled Lapwing, Indian Roller,
Black Drongo, Common, Jungle and Pied Myna, Large-billed Crow and Rhesus
Macaque.
After Karnali, the highway took us through Bardia National
Park. At the first checkpoint, I got good views of Taiga Flycatcher,
Alexandrine Parakeet, Red-vented Bulbul and Shikra. Crossing the Babai River, 3
enormous Gharial were seen sunning on the bank. With only maybe 2000 believed
to be still in the wild, this critically endangered reptile was a real treat.
Nearby were also 4 Marsh Mugger crocodiles, giving a great comparison.
As night fell, a few ‘bus ticks’ were added to the list,
including Red-rumped Swallow, Spotted Dove, Pied Bush Chat, House Crow and Eastern
Cattle Egret.
Wednesday 28th December 2011: With very
little sleep, the dawn brought relief knowing that within an hour or so, we’d
be in Pokhara. Rubbing my eyes, the first birds of the day were 2 Himalayan
Vultures, attempting to catch some non-existent early morning thermals. Great
views of the majestic 6993m Machhapuchre (Fishtail) Mountain were also enjoyed
before the bus dropped down into the valley. Large-billed Crow (ssp intermedius)
were noticeably different from my usual lowland variety and initially had me
thinking Common Raven.
Having been dropped off, we caught a taxi to the Guest House
where we dumped our bags and set off for breakfast on Lakeside. Walking along
the lake, common species noted were Himalayan Swiftlet, Barn Swallow, House and
Eurasian Tree Sparrow, White Wagtail, Common and Jungle Myna and Indian Pond
Heron. Then, before breakfast, my first lifer – a male citreola Citrine
Wagtail in full breeding plumage. Great bird and one that has been avoiding my
efforts for many years! Over breakfast, Pale-throated (Plain) Martin, Grey
Wagtail, Common Sandpiper, Paddyfield Pipit and Rose-ringed Parakeet were all
easy additions.
A walk into the main town after breakfast was actually quite
productive. Both Dusky and Greenish Warbler were easy – Greenish very common
and calling constantly from the trees, and Dusky more skulking but also
chacking away. Two White-rumped Vultures circled directly overhead, followed
soon after by what I believe to be a Griffon Vulture.
After a brief rest back at the Guest House, we ventured out
to Fishtail Lodge, really to just check it out, before hopefully returning the
next day. The place was somewhat quiet and it was clear that the ‘dump’ had
recently been added to with vast quantities of building rubble. However, a
cracking male Snowy-browed Flycatcher and Yellow-bellied Fantail added a splash
of colour to the drab greyness of concrete rubble. Both Plumbeous Water
Redstart (far more females than males) and Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher were
to become regular sightings here in Pokhara.
So with my first lifer under my belt, I sat with my wife
later that night at Caffé Concerto enjoying a fantastic Rosemary Steak and my
first Gorkha Beer of the evening. It only took a couple of beers though before
the lack of sleep the night before finally caught up and sent us back to the
Guest House.
Thursday 29th December 2011: Out of the
Guest House by 6:30, I had already arrived and settled in at the dump at
Fishtail Lodge by 6:50. Great views of the sun striking the Annapurna Range
across the misty lake were being enjoyed before the birds started to show
themselves. As is often the case, a stake-out can be somewhat slow but over the
next 3 hours, persistence paid off with a pair of Small Niltava, a single
female Rufous-bellied Niltava, several Grey-bellied Tesia, a female
White-tailed Robin, and yesterday’s Yellow-bellied Fantail and Snowy-browed
Flycatcher. To be honest, I was also rather hoping for thrushes and
wren-babblers but neither were seen (in fact, I didn’t see a single
wren-babbler on the entire trip). A quick look at the guard post before I left
was rewarded however with brief but conclusive views of a Long-billed Thrush
perched on a wall after being accidently flushed. My second lifer of the trip –
and a thrush at that; aren’t they good! An extra half an hour here added Blue Whistling
Thrush and Grey Treepie but no further views of the Long-billed.
We had planned to take a boat out to the northern shores of
the lake later that morning but since my wife was still feeling tired, I took
off to the roof and had a fantastic time ticking off the raptors. Over the next
2 hours a total of 9 Egyptian Vultures, numerous Black Kites, 3 White-rumped
Vultures, 1 Himalayan Vulture, 3 Steppe Eagles, 1 pale morph Booted Eagle, a
female Eurasian Sparrowhawk and a couple of Black-eared Kites were all enjoyed.
Many more Eurasian/Himalayan Vultures were visible over the distant hills but
they were exactly that – too distant!
Early afternoon saw us strolling along Lakeside once again,
where summer plumage Little Grebes were putting on a bit of a show. Oriental
White-eye and Large Cuckooshrike were picked up in the gardens of a local
Lakeside restaurant, along with Common Tailorbird and Oriental Magpie-Robin. A
sunbird buzzing around in the treetops wouldn’t settle long enough to ID but
may well have been female Crimson.
So, later in the afternoon, I was back again at Fishtail
Lodge. A new addition at the dump was a rather obliging male White-browed
Shortwing. He spent a couple of minutes in the undergrowth before coming out to
the edge of the foliage and posing for a while – wish I’d brought the camera
attachment for my scope! Hoping for further views of the Long-billed Thrush, I
went back to the guard post and within 20 minutes, had managed to get a much
better look at a bird digging around in the edge of a damp pool (sewage?)
behind the resort. A very curious Whistler’s Warbler allowed conclusive viewing
to round off the day’s birding.
A hearty tuna pasta back at the Guest House rounded off
another great day, and was of course washed down with the now obligatory Gorkha
Beer. Because we’d met up with a friend, a couple of bottles of red wine were
merrily consumed too.
Friday 30th December 2011: The plan today
was to head off to the back of the Peace Pagoda (by taxi) and walk up the hill
looking for another blocker of mine, Wallcreeper. However, Terri wasn’t feeling
too great (wine maybe?) so by 7:00am, I had set off again to Fishtail Lodge. No
thrush today, but most of the previous day’s suspects were viewed again, this
time the White-tailed Robin providing even better views. ‘New’ species for the
lodge were a small flock of Scarlet Minivet flicking between the treetops, a
handful of superb Blue-throated Barbet, a stunning male Crimson Sunbird singing
just a couple of metres away, a Green-crowned Warbler and a small flock of
noisy White-crested Laughingthrushes.
After a late breakfast/early lunch, we walked back along
Lakeside and hired a boat for half a day. We chose a more expensive, but
somewhat slower, paddle-boat (900 NPR rather than 500 NPR for the wooden
‘canoes’) since it was more stable. As we set off, a dark morph Booted Eagle
started to circle directly above us, white shoulder patches clearly visible.
Reaching the northern side of the lake, the waterfowl began to reveal their
identities. Good numbers of Eurasian Wigeon, Eurasian Teal, Eurasian Coot,
Tufted Duck, Mallard and Gadwall were observed as well as about 20 Northern Pintail,
2 ‘pairs’ of Common Merganser, and a pair of Ferruginous Ducks. Grebes included
about 25 Black-necked and just 2 Great Crested. Scanning the banks on the
northern shore revealed numerous Purple Swamphen but we couldn’t get in close
enough to search for jacanas, waders or other ducks. Surprisingly, no Red-headed
or Common Pochards were seen. A slow paddle back, following the banks of the
west shore added a couple of newbies – a single White-throated Fantail and my
third lifer of the trip, Spotted Forktail, the latter allowing relatively close
views as it flitted around on rocks near a small stream.
Three lifers in three days meant another night out ‘on the
town’, this time treating ourselves to the more upmarket, but still
comparatively cheap, Canadian-owned Moondance Restaurant for meals of Grilled
Rainbow Trout and Beef Ala Kiev. Best meal either of us had had for quite some
time!
Saturday 31st December 2011: Today we set
off early by taxi to the far side of the Peace Pagoda and started to walk the
rough, but driveable, dirt road to the summit in the hope of seeing
Wallcreeper. However, it was evident right away that the road had recently been
re-graded, with the existing rock walls taken back and added to the road surface
– so no Wallcreepers. It was also the Nepali weekend, so a number of motorbikes
and a few buses trundled by kicking up the dust. The habitat along this road is
open/lightly forested terraced hills and as such provided a few different
species. Common birds on these hills were Oriental Turtle Dove, Grey Treepie,
Large Cockooshrike, Red-vented and Himalayan Bulbul, Scarlet Minivet and
Blue-throated and Great Barbet. We also managed Grey Bush Chat, Hair-crested,
Ashy and Bronzed Drongo, a pair of Grey-headed Woodpeckers and Himalayan Black-lored
Tit. All-in-all though it was somewhat slow, birding-wise, on this trail. One
surprise though was a distant but clearly identifiable Black-headed Gull
following the river down in the valley.
As well as providing crippling views of the Annapurna Range,
the Peace Pagoda itself was far more birdy. Despite the number of people, the
Pagoda was obviously at that moment creating thermal updrafts and stunning
views of 2 Egyptian Vultures, 9 Himalayan Vultures, 1 White-rumped Vulture, a
couple of Griffon Vultures, 3 Steppe Eagles and several Black Kites, all over a
20-minute period, were obtained. To round it off a single adult Red-headed
Vulture put in an appearance – a splendid Nepal tick for me. A supporting cast
of Grey-hooded Warbler, Grey-bellied Tesia, Crimson Sunbird, White-throated
Fantail and Velvet-fronted Nuthatch were available in the bushes and small
trees around the Pagoda itself, though the walk down to the lake was
disappointing with only Red-billed Blue Magpie added to the tally.
A late afternoon visit to Fishtail Lodge proved worthwhile
with my fourth lifer of the trip, Chestnut-headed Tesia. In fact, I saw three
birds, all very well, and it became a species I saw every day from then on. Not
much else was seen, though a male White-browed Shortwing again put on a bit of
a show.
So New Year’s Eve, and a full 5-course meal at Olive Café
was spent in the company of friends, followed by a shockingly poor firework
display at the stroke of midnight down by the lake. Four lifers in 4 days. What
would the New Year bring?
Sunday 1st January 2012: Waking up surprisingly
fresh after the New Year celebrations, I headed out at 6:45 to begin a walk
back to the Peace Pagoda by a different route. However, the weather had turned
and it was now overcast and spitting with light rain – what a change to the
cloudless days we’d enjoyed so far. Not put off (I was starting my 2012 Year
List after all), I walked to Damside, following the lake shore as much as
possible. On the way, I picked up another pale morph Booted Eagle flying low
overhead, Common Chiffchaff, Long-tailed Shrike, and a personal surprise,
Aberrant Bush Warbler. Passing the dam, I crossed the suspension bridge, where
I also added a superb White-capped Redstart and more Plumbeous Water Redstarts.
In the fields below the forest were the usual mix of egrets, as well as a lone
female Common Kestrel.
Heading up into the forest, the trail was at first a little
confusing, but very quickly I picked up the correct route and set off for the
top. It was an easy climb and the birding, as usual, came in waves – a
particularly good one revealed both Buff-barred and Lemon-rumped Warblers, Grey-hooded
Warbler, Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Yellow-bellied
Fantail and a single male Small Niltava. Independent of the wave, but seen at
the same time, were a pair of Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons feeding silently on
fruit. Nearby, and having been ‘unblocked’ yesterday, were a couple more
Chestnut-headed Tesias bouncing around in the undergrowth.
Reaching the top, I went to an area of scrub on a nearby
hill covered with prayer flags and was rewarded straight away with a skulking
Grey-sided Bush Warbler and a pair of very inquisitive Spiny Babbler that
performed wonderfully. Heading over to the Pagoda was again very productive –
the low trees around the sides and back giving up such gems as Great and
Blue-throated Barbets, Scarlet Minivet, Himalayan Bulbul, Grey-capped Pygmy
Woodpecker, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch and Himalayan Black-lored Tit. I also had
the bizarre experience of seeing Santa waving from a low-flying light aircraft
as it buzzed the Pagoda – pretty surreal!
Heading back towards the trail, I had a real magpie feast
with not only Red-billed Blue Magpie but also a couple of Yellow-billed, as
well as Common Green Magpie and Grey Treepie – all on show for a good 15
minutes or so. Walking back through the forest was less birdy than earlier, but
I did manage to see both Grey-headed Woodpecker and Greater Yellownape, as well
as another male Snowy-browed Flycatcher. A recently tilled field just the other
side of the suspension bridge had several Olive-backed Pipits, Taiga Flycatcher
and a cracking male Hodgson’s Redstart. Not a bad start to the Year.
Last night’s celebrations were starting to take their toll,
so after a brief snooze I took a damp walk north along Lakeside, onto the road
and followed that round a headland where I snuck across the fields to get a
look at some waterfowl out on the lake. Before getting there however, I’d
already logged both Paddyfield and Rosy Pipit (both down to just a couple of
metres), Pied Bush Chat, Brown Shrike and a single White-browed Wagtail – not
sure how regular the latter are at the lake, so a nice addition to the list.
The waterfowl were represented by just Eurasian Coot, Tufted Duck and a couple
of Little Grebe. However, a Common Kingfisher and Common Sandpiper added
variety as did a handful of Black-crowned Night Herons as I headed back in the
approaching dusk. End of the ‘first’ day and I was up to 74 species on my year
list.
Tomorrow, we would be leaving just after lunch on the return
trip to Dhangadhi, so we returned to Caffé Concerto for a farewell Italian dinner
in front of an open fire to celebrate the first day of 2012 and our last
evening in Pokhara.
Monday 2nd January 2012: Looking out of
the window in the pre-dawn, it was clearly another overcast day and I toyed
with the idea of having a lie-in. However, I’m glad that I didn’t as the
weather quickly improved and my last morning at Fishtail Lodge provided yet
another lifer. On arrival, the usual cast put on a pretty good show at the dump
but within 20 minutes a Scaly Thrush added that something extra with both
flight and ground views in superb light. However, it was back over at the guard
post that I got my lifer in the form of Maroon Oriole. Several birds came
through the canopy with a mixed wave of Large Cuckooshrike, Scarlet Minivet and
various warblers. With patience, good views were had, and their distinctive
rattling trill memorised.
With the skies now blue once again and the thermals rising,
I wanted to get some raptors onto my year list, so it was back to the roof. And
what a show I had. In total I recorded 6 species of vulture, including for the
first time on this trip, Cinereous Vulture, as well as 3 Steppe Eagles, a
sub-adult Golden eagle and another Booted Eagle. In the far distance, I could
see many Himalayan/Griffon Vultures circling above the hills and counted, on
one occasion, 42 birds spread across 3 different peaks.
Making the bus with just 5 minutes to spare, we found
ourselves seated one row from the back which, combined with the already cramped
space (4 massive drums of phenyl this time), provided a very bumpy ride. Other
than a small troop of Tarai Gray Langur, nothing else was logged before dark.
Tuesday 3rd January 2012: Snuck a cheeky
one onto the list as we passed Bardia National Park in the form of Red-naped
Ibis. Having stopped at the northern Ambassa Checkpoint, their distinctive
calls could be heard from a known breeding colony I’d visited just a couple of
months before. Other than a lone Greater Coucal as we pulled into Dhangadhi nothing
new was added to the trip after that.
Summary: Nepal is a great country to explore and,
having such a diversity of habitats, is fantastic for birds and other wildlife.
Our trip to Pokhara was very enjoyable, producing 5 lifers, great scenery and,
of course, a break from the routine of work. It was done on a budget, and
really didn’t cost too much at all (our splurge on western cuisine was the
biggest expense). The biggest consideration though is definitely transport.
Private jeeps cost somewhere in the region of 5-6,000 NPR per day, so if in a
group this could begin to be cost-effective, particularly if you want to get
around somewhat at your destination. The travel times would also be reduced to
some extent, but it is the condition of the roads, and the number of people,
bikes, cows, goats, dogs, tractors and other hazards that slow you down. A jeep
would also be far more comfortable.
Systematic List
Birds annotated with a star ‘*’ were NOT recorded in the
Pokhara Valley, but instead in the Far-Western Terai.
Anatidae
Gadwall (Anas strepera) Up to 70 birds seen on
Phewa Tal Lake – 30/12/11
Eurasian Wigeon (Anas penelope) An estimated
250-300 birds on Phewa Tal Lake – 30/12/11
Mallard (Anas platyrhynchos) Approximately 400
on Phewa Tal Lake – 30/12/11
Northern Pintail (Anas acuta) 18-20
individuals on Phewa Tal Lake – 30/12/11
Eurasian Teal (Anas crecca) Approximately 400
on Phewa Tal Lake – 30/12/11
Ferruginous Duck (Aythya nyroca) A single pair
on Phewa Tal Lake – 30/12/11
Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula) Approximately
200 on Phewa Tal Lake, 30/12/11 and 45 closer to southern shore on 01/01/12
Common Merganser (Mergus merganser) Two males
and two females on Phewa Tal Lake – 30/12/11
Podicipedidae
Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis) Common
in small numbers on Phewa Tal Lake
Great Crested Grebe (Podiceps cristatus) Two
seen on Phewa Tal Lake – 30/12/11
Black-necked Grebe (Podiceps nigricollis) Approximately
25 on Phewa Tal Lake – 30/12/11
Threskiornithidae
Red-naped Ibis* (Pseudibis papillosa) Heard
only at known breeding site near Ambassa, Bardia National Park on 03/01/12
Ardeidae
Black-crowned Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax) Small
breeding colony in South Lakeside, plus individuals seen most evening heading
out over Phewa Tal Lake
Indian Pond Heron (Ardeola grayii) Common
throughout
Eastern Cattle Egret (Bubulcus coromandus) Seen
daily in small numbers but more common in the Terai
Great Egret (Ardea alba) Seen daily in small
numbers – more common at northern end of Phewa Tal Lake
Intermediate Egret (Egretta intermedia) Seen
daily in small numbers – more common at northern end of Phewa Tal Lake
Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) Common
throughout
Phalacrocoracidae
Great Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo) A large
colony at South Lakeside near Fishtail Lodge
Pandionidae
Western Osprey* (Pandion haliaetus) A single
bird near Dhangadhi – 27/12/11
Accipitridae
Black-winged Kite* (Elanus caeruleus) A single
sighting near Bardia National Park – 27/12/11
Black Kite (Milvus migrans) Common in Pokhara
itself and around the Valley
Black-eared Kite (Milvus lineatus) A couple of
individuals seen near the Peace Pogoda on 31/12/11, and a single in South
Lakeside on 29/12/11
Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus) Seen
almost daily, with maximum count of 9 birds on 29/12/11 from Guest House roof
White-rumped Vulture (Gyps bengalensis) Single
bird in Terai on 27/12/11, and regular in small numbers in Pokhara
Himalayan Vulture (Gyps himalayensis) The
commonest vulture, with a count of 42 Himalayan/Griffon on 02/01/12
Griffon Vulture (Gyps fulvus) Good views of 2
birds at Peace Pogoda on 31/12/11, otherwise quite tricky to separate
Red-headed Vulture (Sarcogyps calvus) A single
adult bird at Peace Pagoda on 31/12/11 and a sub-adult from Guest House on
02/01/12
Cinereous Vulture (Aegypius monachus) Just a
single sighting from Guest House roof – 02/01/12
Shikra (Accipiter badius) Singles on 27/12/11
in Bardia National Park and 02/01/12 from Guest House roof
Eurasian Sparrowhawk (Accipiter nisus) Seen
almost daily throughout the Valley
Steppe Eagle (Aquila nipalensis) Almost daily,
with maximum of 3 from Guest House – 02/01/12
Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) A single
immature bird from Guest House roof – 02/01/12
Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus) Both pale
and dark morph individuals seen daily at various sights
Falconidae
Common Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus) Singles
near Peace Pagoda on 31/12/11 and 01/01/12
Rallidae
White-breasted Waterhen (Amaurornis phoenicurus) Very
skulking but seen daily at Fishtail Lodge
Purple Swamphen (Porphyrio porphyria) At least
20 birds seen at northern end of Phewa Tal Lake – 30/12/11
Common Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) Single
bird(s) most days at Fishtail Lodge
Eurasian Coot (Fulica atra) Approximately 250
at northern end of Phewa Tal Lake 30/12/11, with a further 60 closer to
Lakeside on 01/01/12
Charadriidae
Red-wattled Lapwing* (Vanellus indicus) Two
birds near Attariya (Terai) – 27/12/11
Scolopacidae
Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos) Singles
seen on Phewa Tal Lake – 28/12/11 and 01/01/12
Laridae
Black-headed Gull (Chroicocephalus ridibundus) A
single bird flying upstream in valley to
east of Peace Pagoda – 31/12/11
Columbidae
Rock Dove (Columba livia) Feral birds common
throughout
Oriental Turtle Dove (Streptopelia orientalis) Only
1 sighting, near Peace Pagoda – 31/12/11
Spotted Dove* (Spilopelia chinensis) Common in
Terai – 27/12/11
Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon (Treron sphenurus) A
pair on forested trail to peace Pagoda – 01/01/12
Psittacidae
Alexandrine Parakeet* (Psittacula eupatria) A
single bird seen (and heard) near Bardia National Park – 27/12/11
Rose-ringed Parakeet (Psittacula krameri) Fairly
common in Lakeside
Cuculidae
Greater Coucal* (Centropus sinensis) A single
in Dhangadhi – 03/01/12
Apodidae
Himalayan Swiftlet (Aerodramus brevirostris) Very
common throughout Pokhara Valley
House Swift (Apus nipalensis) Half a dozen
birds over Phewa Tal Lake – 30/12/11
Coraciidae
Indian Roller* (Coracias benghalensis) Single
sighting in Terai – 27/12/11
Alcedinidae
White-throated Kingfisher (Halcyon smyrnensis) Seen
daily, as individuals, in small numbers
Common Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis) Singles at
Fishtail Lodge, 29/12/11 and Lakeside, 01/01/12
Megalaimidae
Great Barbet (Megalaima virens) Common near
Peace Pagoda – 31/12/11 & 01/01/12
Blue-throated Barbet (Megalaima asiatica) Common
near Peace Pagoda – 31/12/11 & 01/01/12, also fairly regular in gardens at
Fishtail Lodge
Picidae
Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker (Dendrocopos canicapillus)
Single at Peace Pagoda – 01/01/12
Greater Yellownape (Chrysophlegma flavinucha) A
male on forested trail to Peace Pagoda, 01/01/12 and a pair at Fishtail Lodge
02/01/12
Grey-headed Woodpecker (Picus canus) Almost
daily at Fishtail Lodge
Campephagidae
Large Cuckooshrike (Coracina macei) Very
common, particularly in more open countryside near Peace Pagoda
Scarlet Minivet (Pericrocotus speciosus) Very
common, particularly in more open countryside near Peace Pagoda, also regular
at Fishtail Lodge
Laniidae
Brown Shrike (Lanius cristatus) Just a single
sighting on Lakeside – 01/01/12
Long-tailed Shrike (Lanius schach) Seen daily
on Lakeside
Oriolidae
Maroon Oriole (Oriolus traillii) 5-6 birds at
Fishtail Lodge – 02/01/12
Dicruridae
Black Drongo (Dicrurus macrocercus) Common in
the Terai but just one (?) sighting on Lakeside – 29/12/11
Ashy Drongo (Dicrurus leucophaeus) Single bird
on terraced hills below Peace Pagoda – 31/12/11
Bronzed Drongo (Dicrurus aeneus) Single bird
on terraced hills below Peace Pagoda – 31/12/11
Hair-crested Drongo (Dicrurus hottentottus)
Single bird on terraced hills below Peace Pagoda – 31/12/11
Rhipiduridae
White-throated Fantail (Rhipidura albicollis) Two
sightings, 1 at Phewa Tal Lake, 30/12/11 and 1 at Peace Pagoda 31/12/11
Corvidae
Yellow-billed Blue Magpie (Urocissa flavirostris) A
couple of birds with following species at Peace Pagoda – 01/01/12
Red-billed Blue Magpie (Urocissa erythroryncha) Common
in the forest behind Fishtail Lodge and at Peace Pagoda
Common Green Magpie (Cissa chinensis) Single
bird seen at Peace Pagoda – 01/01/12
Rufous Treepie (Dendrocitta vagabunda) Common
in the Terai, with singles in Pokhara Valley on 28/12/11 and Peace Pagoda
31/12/11
Grey Treepie (Dendrocitta formosae) Common
throughout the valley at all sites
House Crow (Corvus splendens) Very common
Large-billed Crow (Corvus macrorhynchos) Common,
with larger intermedius form seen in the valley – will need to check
taxonomy for lowland spp in Terai.
Stenostiridae
Yellow-bellied Fantail (Chelidorhynx hypoxantha) Daily
at Fishtail Lodge, as well as at Peace Pagoda – 31/21/11 & 01/01/12
Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher (Culicicapa ceylonensis)
Very common both in and on edge of any forested area
Paridae
Cinereous Tit (Parus cinereus) Single at Attariya
(Terai), 27/12/11, Fishtail Lodge 30/12/11 and Peace Pagoda 31/12/11 &
01/01/12
Himalayan Black-lored Tit (Parus xanthogenys) Common
at Fishtail Lodge and Peace Pagoda
Pycnonotidae
Himalayan Bulbul (Pycnonotus leucogenys) Common
on terraced hillside below Peace Pagoda – 31/12/11 & 01/01/12
Red-vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus cafer) Very
common throughout
Hirundinidae
Pale-throated Martin (Riparia chinensis)
Smalls numbers on Phewa Tal Lake daily. Not sure of the current taxonomy, but
I’m actually referring to Plain Martin (Riparia paludicola) in ‘Birds of
Nepal’
Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) Very common
throughout Valley and on Phewa Tal Lake
Red-rumped Swallow* (Cecropis daurica) Recorded
in Terai – 27/12/11
Cettiidae
Grey-bellied Tesia (Tesia cyaniventer) Very
regular at Fishtail Lodge, as well as along forested trails to/from Peace
Pagoda
Chestnut-headed Tesia (Tesia castaneocoronata) 3
birds at Fishtail Lodge 31/12/11 and 2 on trail to Peace Pogoda, 01/01/12
Aberrant Bush Warbler (Cettia flavolivacea) Single
bird just above dam on Phewa Tal Lake – 01/01/12
Grey-sided Bush Warbler (Cettia brunnifrons) 2
singles; one on ‘Prayer-flag Hill’ and the other at the Peace Pagoda – 01/01/12
Phylloscopidae
Common Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita) A
single bird just above dam on Phewa Tal Lake – 01/01/12
Dusky Warbler (Phylloscopus fuscatus) Single
sighting on Lakeside – 28/12/11
Buff-barred Warbler (Phylloscopus pulcher) A
lone bird on forested trail to Peace Pagoda – 01/01/12
Lemon-rumped Warbler (Phylloscopus chloronotus)
Seen on forested trail to Peace Pagoda – 01/01/12
Greenish Warbler (Phylloscopus trochiloides) Fairly
common around lakeside
Grey-hooded Warbler (Phylloscopus xanthoschistos) Singles
at Peace Pagoda, 31/12/11, and Lakeside 01/01/12
Green-crowned Warbler (Seicercus burkii) One
sighting at Fishtail Lodge – 30/12/11
Whistler's Warbler (Seicercus whistleri) Regular
at Fishtail Lodge
Cisticolidae
Common Tailorbird (Orthotomus sutorius) Common
in town and edge of forest
Leiothrichidae
Spiny Babbler (Turdoides nipalensis) 2 birds on ‘Prayer-flag Hill’ – 01/01/12
White-crested Laughingthrush (Garrulax leucolophus)
Small flocks at Fishtail Lodge, 30/12/11 and in forest below Peace Pagoda
01/01/12
Zosteropidae
Oriental White-eye (Zosterops palpebrosus) Fairly
common throughout
Sittidae
Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch (Sitta cinnamoventris) 3-4
birds at Peace Pagoda – 01/01/12
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch (Sitta frontalis) Singles
at Peace Pagoda, 31/12/11 and on forested trail 01/01/12
Sturnidae
Jungle Myna (Acridotheres fuscus) Fairly
common around Lakeside
Common Myna (Acridotheres tristis) Very common
around Lakeside
Pied Myna* (Gracupica contra) Fairly common in
Terai – 27/12/11
Turdidae
Blue Whistling Thrush (Myophonus caeruleus) Common
at Fishtail Lodge and Peace Pagoda, occasional on Lakeside
Scaly Thrush (Zoothera dauma) Single sighting
at Fishtail Lodge – 02/01/12
Long-billed Thrush (Zoothera monticola) Two
sightings (same bird?) at Fishtail Lodge – 29/12/11
White-browed Shortwing (Brachypteryx montana) Single
male birds at Fishtail Lodge – 29/12/11 & 30/12/11
Muscicapidae
Oriental Magpie-Robin (Copsychus saularis) Fairly
common alongside Lakeside
Hodgson's Redstart (Phoenicurus hodgsoni) A
single male near Phewa Tal Dam – 01/01/12
Plumbeous Water Redstart (Rhyacornis fuliginosa) Daily
at Fishtail Lodge and along Lakeside
White-capped Redstart (Chaimarrornis leucocephalus)
At least 2 birds from suspension bridge below dam on Phewa Tal Lake –
01/01/12
White-tailed Robin (Myiomela leucura) Female
seen at Fishtail Lodge – 29/12/11 & 30/12/11
Spotted Forktail (Enicurus maculatus) One bird
on Phewa Tal Lake – 30/12/11
Siberian Stonechat (Saxicola maurus) Recorded
in Terai, 27/12/11 and on Lakeside 30/12/11
Pied Bush Chat (Saxicola caprata) Seen in
Terai, 27/12/11 and on Lakeside 28/12/11 & 01/01/12
Grey Bush Chat (Saxicola ferreus) Singles on
terraced hills below Peace Pagoda on 31/12/11 and on Lakeside, 01/01/12
Taiga Flycatcher (Ficedula albicilla) One at
Bardia National Park, 27/12/11 and Lakeside 01/01/12
Snowy-browed Flycatcher (Ficedula hyperythra) Single
males regular at Fishtail Lodge, with 1 on forested trail to Peace Pagoda,
01/01/12
Rufous-bellied Niltava (Niltava sundara) Single
female at Fishtail Lodge 29/12/11
Small Niltava (Niltava macgrigoriae) Single males
at Fishtail Lodge, 29/12/11 and on forested trail to Peace Pagoda, 01/01/12
Nectariniidae
Crimson Sunbird (Aethopyga siparaja) Birds at
Fishtail Lodge, 30/12/11, Peace Pagoda 31/12/11 and Lakeside 01/01/12
Passeridae
House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) Very common
throughout
Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus) Regular
in small numbers on Lakeside
Motacillidae
Citrine Wagtail (Motacilla citreola) A single
male on Lakeside 28/12/11
Grey Wagtail (Motacilla cinerea) Regular in
small numbers on Lakeside
White Wagtail (Motacilla alba) Common on
Lakeside
White-browed Wagtail (Motacilla maderaspatensis) Single
bird on Lakeside 01/01/12
Paddyfield Pipit (Anthus rufulus) Singles on
Lakeside, 28/12/11 and 01/01/12
Olive-backed Pipit (Anthus hodgsoni) 10-12
birds near dam on Phewa Tal Lake 01/01/12
Rosy Pipit (Anthus roseatus) Single bird on
Lakeside 01/01/12
Other Wildlife
Mammals
Tarai Gray Langur (Semnopithecus hector) Small troop as we left Pokhara Valley – 02/01/12.
Rhesus Macaque (Macaca mulatta) Small numbers
along roadside in Terai – 27/12/11
Reptiles
Gharial (Gavialis
gangeticus) 3 on
Babai River, Bardia National Park – 27/12/11
Marsh Mugger (Crocodylus
palustris) 4 on Babai River, Bardia National Park –
27/12/11
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